Whether color is out in force or merely whispers, it is the key indicator of fashion's mood. The source of its power lies in nature, from whose mysterious depths color comes forth in dramatic ways. One of the most spectacular is fiery, translucent gemstones. These radiant riches are a measure of nature's magic. Sparkling in exquisite Tiffany jewels, they are an ultimate gauge of glamour and style.
Colored gemstones, a centerpiece of Tiffany's jewelry collections, played a major part in establishing Tiffany as a world-renowned jeweler. Prior to the middle of the 19th century, colored gemstones were rarely used in American jewelry. All that changed in 1876, when preeminent gemologist Dr. George Frederick Kunz (1856-1932) sold an exceptional tourmaline to Tiffany founder Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812-1902). Soon after, Dr. Kunz joined the company and embarked on a lifelong quest for the most extraordinary gems for Tiffany's clientele.
The treasures unearthed by this intrepid globetrotter formed the world's greatest collection of gemstones. Kunz was as passionate about American gemstones-Montana sapphires, Maine tourmalines, garnets and topazes from Utah-as he was about exotic yellow beryl from Ceylon, demantoid (green) garnets from Russia's Ural Mountains, aquamarines from Brazil, and from Madagascar, a violet pink beryl that was eventually named morganite for financier J.P. Morgan.
With these and other brilliant gems Tiffany created color-saturated jewels as lavish and sought-after as the Tiffany diamonds the fashionably rich wore day and night. G. Paulding Farnham (1859-1927), chief jewelry designer from 1891 to 1908, designed many of these jewels. Farnham was a consummate colorist with a vast range of influences. His floral jewels, among them a nine-inch iris brooch set with Montana sapphires, green garnets and diamonds have no equal.
Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933), son of Charles Tiffany and a leader of the Art Nouveau movement, captured the key themes of his famous stained glass-vividly colored fruits, wildflowers, birds, insects-in jewels with Mexican fire opals, green and red garnets and amethysts. His love of nature is beautifully reflected in a ring featuring a spectacular cabochon Maine tourmaline in a gold grapevine setting.
The creations of these gifted designers were featured in Tiffany's grand prize-winning exhibitions at the great world's fairs in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. With motifs from antiquity to Orientalist, Native American and later, the exuberant 1930s Cocktail Style, Tiffany & Co. received unprecedented recognition as the undisputed leader in the world of jewels.
Tiffany introduced gemstones well into the twentieth century. In 1969 the company introduced tanzanite, a dazzling blue zoisite named for Tanzania, its country of origin. In 1974 Tiffany introduced tsavorite, a form of green garnet intensely rich in color, named for Tanzania's Tsavo National Park.
The jeweler's gemstone heritage remains vibrantly alive with many of the original stones acquired during the decades of discovery. With the addition of other luminous gems such as exotic Paraiba tourmalines and mandarin garnets, as well as exquisite emeralds from Colombia and sapphires from Kashmir, Tiffany designers continue to make major fashion statements. Among them are gem-encrusted necklaces and pendants, long drop earrings and lavish cocktail rings, and jewels inspired by designs in the Tiffany & Co. Archives.
Jean Schlumberger, one of the 20th century's most illustrious designers, utilizes a dynamic color mix to create ravishing flowers, birds, and mythical creatures. His unexpected combinations-emeralds, amethysts, yellow and blue sapphires in the magnificent Phoenix clip, for example-along with a strong sculptural quality, spark a new experience of nature's fantastic color scheme.
Paloma Picasso, one of the world's premier designers, is celebrated for jewelry of impressive magnitude and sophistication. Favored by fashion-conscious women everywhere, the designer highlights looks in all seasons with generously scaled gemstones. Her bold ring designs underscore the unique identity of bright pink and chrome green tourmalines, lustrous tanzanites and sky-blue aquamarines.
Tiffany's reputation for superlative gemstones shines on in the jeweler's showcases around the world. Each color is a classic expression of fashion, presented with the utmost quality and craftsmanship that have distinguished Tiffany & Co. for over eight generations.
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