Mesmerizing Beauty: Jean Schlumberger’s Fantastical Designs

Apr 16, 2021 — Big, bold and boundary breaking. These are the hallmarks of Jean Schlumberger’s unique creations. One of the most prolific designers of the 20th century, the visionary elevated the presentation of precious metals and gemstones to new heights.

Widely considered an artistic genius, Schlumberger’s innovative designs remain a cherished collection at Tiffany & Co. His interpretations of nature—sea creatures, flowering plants and exotic animals among them—transformed fine jewelry. More than 50 of his masterpieces are available for purchase at Tiffany’s private Blue Book Collection preview in China this April. They will be included along with more than 500 high jewelry pieces in Shanghai before traveling to other cities across the globe.

Showcasing custom-cut diamonds and colorful paillonné enamel nestled in gold and platinum, Schlumberger’s fantastical expressions are love letters to his affinity for flora and fauna. “I try to make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion,” Schlumberger once said. “I want to capture the irregularities of the universe.”

The artist’s indelible imprint on the world of high jewelry still shines on today with the 2021 Blue Book Collection, Colors of Nature, featuring Schlumberger’s spellbinding pieces.

Below, join us in honoring his legacy with a visual feast of some of the icon’s treasures:

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Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Morning Glory Necklace

Capturing the glory of flowers, blooms burst from this rarely created platinum and 18k yellow gold necklace. The design, embodying the designer’s passion for capturing and celebrating the beauty of nature, features sparkling diamonds of over 12 total carats and pink sapphires of more than 81 total carats. Five pink sapphire blossoms are suspended from an intricate gold vine and accented by diamond encrusted buds. Sapphire and diamond earrings perfectly pair with the necklace, set in platinum and 18k yellow gold.

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Vrille Necklace

This necklace, named for the French word for “tendril” or “spiral,” showcases abstract, surreal blooms crafted from rubellites, diamond and 18k yellow gold. The statement piece features more than 100 total carats and diamonds equaling more than 24 carats.

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Surreal Shell Necklace

Inspired by cowrie shells and crafted for the first time ever from an archival sketch, this necklace in platinum features mixed-cut sapphires of over 49 total carats. Anchored in five shell shapes, the piece is wreathed in baguette and round brilliant diamonds of more than 32 total carats.

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Sea Anemone Brooch

Full of movement and life—and mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold—this brooch reimagines the sea creature in Jean Schlumberger’s unique design vocabulary. Reflecting the artist’s gift for animating his creations, Tiffany’s artisans brought the design to life with more than 26 total carats of sapphires, tsavorites of over 17 total carats, round brilliant diamonds and intricate gold work.

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Spiky Starfish Brooch

Jean Schlumberger’s signature spike motif starfish is realized in a bold display of diamonds and rubies, accented with a center diamond. Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold, this five-pointed sea creature exudes a persona that is unexpected yet completely modern.

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Twin Fish Brooch

This marine-inspired brooch connects two fanciful pavé diamond fish with an 18k gold bow as if one is chasing the other in a playful game. Featuring square diamonds of over 2 total carats and diamonds of more than 8 total carats, the design is the embodiment of Jean Schlumberger’s ingenious and whimsical expressions of sea life. The fish shines brightly with red paillonné enamel fins—an unmistakable hallmark of Jean Schlumberger design.

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Royal Fish Brooch

Imbued with mythical movement, this golden-tailed fish brooch is set in 18k yellow gold and platinum. The piece, a nod to Jean Schlumberger’s fondness for nature’s wonders, is adorned with sapphires, tsavorites, spinels and diamonds.

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Parrot Bust Brooch

This blue-feathered brooch features paillonné enamel and tsavorites of over 5 total carats. A cabochon turquoise adds a surprising touch to the avian piece, set in 18k yellow gold. The blue paillonné enamel on the feathers was created using a special technique involving positioning a delicate “paillon” swatch of foil between two coats of enamel, giving off a luminous effect.

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Tisserand Necklace

A celebration of color, this necklace, the name of which means “tapestry,” features a palette of more than 42 carats of blue sapphires, over 18 carats of tanzanites and 52 carats of pink sapphires. The design’s interwoven elements drape luxuriously on the neck and are cleverly punctuated with diamonds and gold droplets.

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Nest Earrings

These statement earrings, crafted from 18k yellow gold and platinum, feature a pair of cushion-cut sapphires of over 12 total carats and pear-shaped diamonds totaling over 8 carats.

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Languette bracelet

This bracelet’s 18k yellow gold pointed languettes (which mean “tongues” in French) appear to move as they melt into a honeycomb-like pattern of round pink sapphires and spessartines.

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